New Etsy Shop

Hooray! My new Etsy shop is now officially open.
Visit https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste to see my listings.
The three Victorian bonnets posted here are still available in time for Christmas...
And there will be more, exciting items available in the New Year. Watch this space.

Finally, some work in progress...

I have finally started work on my next project which will be a girl's 1860s dress and underwear. The progress was pretty slow yesterday as I was looking after a poorly dog among other things, but a tiny pair of bloomers (age 6) are taking form. It may be another couple of weeks before this project is finished as I have visitors this weekend and graduate next week but at least I've started!

Upcoming projects

My Victorian sewing  has been temporarily delayed over the past couple of weeks by another personal project which I will reveal on my Bygone Elegance blog at the beginning of next month. However, as this project is now nearly finished, I have begun planning the next items for La Belle Modiste.

The first project will be for a girl's 1860s dress, complete with underwear and a small crinoline, possibly in Christmassy red... a great opportunity to use some of my black trimmings.

And here are some of the inspirations for creating a girl's outfit.

I also have a beautiful piece of camel-coloured wool blend cloth. I have not yet decided what this will be transformed into, but it is such a nice warm fabric that I think perhaps a winter jacket of some kind would be a good choice. Watch this space...

In the next couple of weeks, I will also be moving my sales to an Etsy shop - I will post more details about this once the shop is up and running. In the meantime, I hope everyone is enjoying the changing seasons and looking forward to some great costume events this winter.

Bonnets on sale...

My first three bonnets are now for sale on ebay. See the posts below for the individual links to each ebay page.

Link to sale page

The bonnets have now been uploaded to ebay with the listings scheduled to start at 10:00 Saturday 31st October. My ebay seller name is la_belle-modiste. The link to my items for sale is http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/la_belle-modiste/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=. At the moment it shows 0 items but the bonnets should hopefully appear at the scheduled time. I will check the link is working next week and update the individual posts with links to the sale pages.

An 1880s-1890s small bonnet in cream silk satin and straw with green ribbons - £95

*** Link to sale page here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste***

 This small, oval-shaped bonnet with a v-neck is typical of late Victorian styles popular in the 1880s and 1890s. The bonnet form is similar to a horseshoe shape and cupped to fit around the back of the crown of the head/hair. These bonnets typically had no brim but were profusely decorated with ruffles of fabric and other decorations.

A bonnet in this typical shape in La Mode Illustrée, April,1886

The basic bonnet form is made from two layers of buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) which are shaped over a head form when wet and then dried and cut to create the final solid shape. The edge of this form is stiffened with wire to help the bonnet maintain its shape.

This form is covered with cream silk satin (padded underneath with an invisible cotton lining). Over this satin base, strips of loosely woven straw fabric have been stitched in decorative bands. Straw was used in many different forms on Victorian bonnets, and although I have used a modern millinery straw of the kind often used to decorate special occasion hats, it is not dissimilar from the sorts of woven straw and horsehair braids that I have seen on original bonnets.

 The front ruffle and edge binding are made from the same cream silk satin and the ruffle is lined with cotton to give lots of volume to the front gathers. When the bonnet is positioned towards the back of the head, it is these gathers that can be seen from the front.

 The bonnet is decorated on the outside with a mixture of feathers, ribbons and artificial flowers, as was the taste in the late nineteenth century. A spray of artificial sweet peas (wire, plastic and fabric) in creams and greens is mingled with white rooster feathers and twists of satin ribbon in two complementary shades of green. Nestled among the feathers and leaves there are also some loops of wire with tiny green seed beads, a popular decorative detail that I have noticed on many women's bonnets from this period.

 

 The bonnet ties are of satin ribbon in two shades of green, the same as those used for the decorations. Having two different-coloured bonnet ties was fairly unusual but this is something that I have seen on at least two original Victorian bonnets and creates a fun twist. The two shades complement each other well and create a harmonious effect with the overall decoration. The ribbons are stitched to the back of the bonnet, covering the neck binding and meet in a V at the centre back, and tie under the chin.

 

The bonnet is lined with a strip of couture-grade cream cotton/silk blend fabric. This strip is hand-stitched to the front edge of the bonnet, covering the ruffle gathers, and the back edge is gathered into the crown of the bonnet with very narrow satin ribbon in a hand-stitched casing. This is typical of the lining method for many 1880s bonnet, with the maker's label just peeking through the opening at the back.

 This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using techniques that were employed in the Victorian era

 This charming and fresh little bonnet would be a great addition to any late Victorian spring or summer wardrobe.

Due to its size and shape, the bonnet it not really designed for any specific headsize. The cupped form should fit the contours of the crown of most heads, and as the pictures show, the bonnet is best worn perched on the back of your hair to create the look of the period. The wig for these photographs was loosely styled after the fashions of the 1880s with much of the length of the hair piled onto the crown. The bonnet was then placed over this and pinned. If your hair is long, I have also found that arranging the back hair into a kind of french pleat provides an effective base to support the bonnet (See the photograph below). The best way to secure this bonnet it using a sturdy hat pin or two.

This image is for illustrative purposes only - the bonnet in this photograph is not for sale. However, if you would like something similar do not hesitate to contact me at bygoneelegance@gmail.com.

 This bonnet will be priced at £95.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

An 1862 high-brimmed bonnet in black velvet with red plaid ribbons - £145

***Link to sale page here:https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste

***

 This bonnet is in the high-brimmed style that became very fashionable in 1862. These bonnets had a very high oval peaked brim in the shape of a spoon which earned them the name "spoon bonnets". The inside of the brim above the forehead was often profusely decorated with artificial flowers and lace. This bonnet is inspired by bonnets seen in The Ladies Treasury (1862) but can be worn to depict the years 1862-1865 as these high-brimmed bonnets continued to be popular until the middle of the century when they suddenly disappeared from fashion.

The Ladies Treasury - 1862

The Ladies Treasury - 1862

 The bonnet frame is made from buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) with a net and wire brim. This method of construction is period correct and also has the advantage that should your bonnet ever get slightly squashed the brim can be gently manipulated back into shape.

 The fabric is a rich black cotton velvet with a short pile and beautiful feel. Although velvet would have mostly been silk at this period, this cotton velvet achieves a pleasing and more economical effect without resorting to synthetic materials. Unfortunately velvet does not photograph well but this is an excellent quality fabric and looks very sumptuous in real life.

The inside of the brim is decorated with artificial leaves and red and white carnation flowers. These appear very prominent on the mannequin head which is small and solid, but when worn they nestle very nicely between the hair and the bonnet. There is also a deep lace ruffle around the inside of the brim made from high quality English cotton leavers lace. This lace is made "authenticlace" on ebay, a British company that makes Cluny style leavers lace on original machines of the kind that would have been being used to produce machine lace in the 1860s.

 The exterior decoration features two medium black ostrich feathers which were a favourite millinery decoration throughout the nineteenth century. These are tucked under the stunning ribbon ties which encircle the crown.

 The bonnet ties are a beautiful 4 1/4 inch wide plaid ribbon in shades of red and purple with gold highlights. Queen Victoria is well known for having started a tartan craze after buying Balmoral in 1848 and ribbon pattern books from the 1860s are full of tartan and plaid designs, many of them in bright and striking colour combinations thanks to the advances in dying silk during this period. The ribbons in 1862 would most likely have been silk. Unfortunately I do not know the fibre composition of this particular ribbon as it is a vintage ribbon. However, their overall effect is not dissimilar to some original silk ribbons that I have seen and they certainly capture the style of this period.

Please note that the ribbons are slightly creased from being tied but will be carefully pressed before being sent - the fabric presses very well

 The inside of the bonnet is lined with a cotton headlining. This is stitched to the front edge of the headpiece near the brim join and pleated into the back of the bonnet. The back edge is not stitched down - this is the way that original bonnets were lined. (Note the back edge is cut on the selvage so will not fray).

 The bavolet (or curtain) is made from the same cotton as the bonnet and lined with hand-stitched faux silk.

This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using the techniques that were employed in the Victorian era.

This is an eye-catching and elegant bonnet which is sure to add a sense of luxury and style to any outfit. It is perfect for 1860s interpretations, especially at Christmas time, and will complement your crinoline era outfits by creating the complete silhouette of this period. Why not treat yourself or someone special to a wonderful piece of millinery for the festive season - sure to be a hit at Christmas events and Dickens Festivals this winter...

A band of velvet known as a headstay will be added to the inside of the bonnet that is designed to cling to the hair and help keep the bonnet in place. For windy days or extra security you could also secure the bonnet with bobby pins across the headstay, attach a comb to the headstay or use a hatpin. The choice is yours...

The bonnet is designed to fit an average head size of 22-23 inches. However, as the bonnet sits on the crown of the head this is more flexible than a hat style that encircles the forehead. The polystyrene head in the photographs is quite small and has no hair which is why the bonnet looks a little loose in the photographs.

This bonnet will be priced at £145.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

An 1860-1862 High-Brimmed Bonnet in shades of lavender/ violet - £140.00

*** Link to sale page here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste ***

This bonnet is a high-brimmed style suitable for the years 1860-1862 and a great accessory to complete your crinoline era outfit.

The bonnet frame is made from buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) with a net and wire brim. This method of construction is period correct and also has the advantage that should your bonnet ever get slightly squashed the brim can be gently manipulated back into shape.

The fabric is a light, attractive synthetic damask. Although not period-correct in terms of fibres, this fabric creates a nice period look and does not appear too modern or shiny. The colour is somewhere between lavender and lilac with a slight pinky tinge and is quite accurately produced in the photograph. (However, please be aware that colour can vary significantly from one screen to another).

 The inside of the brim in decorated with a ruffle of wide cotton lace, artificial flowers with plastic and wire stems and fabric petals (heather and gypsophila) loops of narrow lace and small lavender-coloured satin bows.

The exterior decoration comprises an arrangement of artificial flowers and leaves.

The bonnet ties are made from two different shades of antique gros grain ribbon that have been sewn to create the wide ties that were fashionable during this period.

The inside of the bonnet is lined with a cotton muslin headlining. This is stitched to the front edge of the headpiece near the brim join and pleated into the back of the bonnet. The back edge is not stitched down - this is the way that original bonnets were lined.

With the exception of the hem on the bavolet (curtain) and the stitching joining the gros grain ribbon this bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using the techniques that were employed in the Victorian era. The use of machine stitching is also acceptable for this period as sewing machines were beginning to be more widely used in the 1860s.

This bonnet is perfect for completing an authentic 1860s outfit and adding that little something extra to your costume. A band of velvet known as a headstay will be added to the inside of the bonnet that is designed to cling to the hair and help keep the bonnet in place. For windy days or extra security you could also secure the bonnet with bobby pins across the headstay, attach a comb to the headstay or use a hatpin. The choice is yours...

The bonnet is designed to fit an average head size of 22-23 inches. However, as the bonnet sits on the crown of the head this is more flexible than a hat style that encircles the forehead. The polystyrene head in the photographs is quite small and has no hair which is why the bonnet looks a little loose in the photographs.

This bonnet will be priced at £140.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

Welcome!

Hello and welcome to my new blog. Having just completed my Masters degree in Dress and Textile Histories I have decided to begin transforming my passion for making historical costume into a viable career. I have been sewing since I was a little girl and making clothes and costume for myself for the past four or five years. Now I would like to begin to share my creations with a wider audience.

On this blog I will be posting all of my completed costume garments and accessories that will be going up for sale. At the moment these include a small selection of Victorian bonnets but I will be expanding this to include costume and accessories from the 18th century through to the 1950s. I expect to post these on Ebay in the first instance and will post details here as the items become available. The blog posts will act as a preview and items will then be uploaded to Ebay in batches. The date for the next upload to Ebay will be published in each post, so if you are interested in an item you needn't worry about checking back every day to see if it has gone on sale.

My aim is to create pieces that are as true to the spirit and aesthetics of their era as possible but suitable for a wide range of purposes and budgets. As well as 100% period correct reproductions that use only authentic materials and techniques, I also enjoy making more bank-account friendly creations that use carefully selected modern fabrics and embellishments along with machine-stitching where appropriate to create the correct look without the inevitable expense of, for example, a completely hand-stitched 100% silk gown. The choice is up to you and my own costume wardrobe is a balance of the two to suit my budget, needs and timescale.

For me the most important thing is feeling good in costume. Whether that is down to the degree of authenticity, comfort or personal taste in styles doesn't really matter. I aim to create costume that you will be happy and proud to wear.

I am passionate about researching garments thoroughly and always look carefully into the history of an item before starting a new project, using original patterns, fashion plates, portraits, photographs and other sources to enable me to capture the look of a period effectively.

I hope that you enjoy exploring the items that I have on offer as much as I did creating them. If you see something that you like please do not hesitate to contact me for more details, including bespoke requests if, for example, you are looking for a different colour scheme, an authentic reproduction or an item made up in your own materials.