An 1880s-1890s small bonnet in cream silk satin and straw with green ribbons - £95

*** Link to sale page here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste***

 This small, oval-shaped bonnet with a v-neck is typical of late Victorian styles popular in the 1880s and 1890s. The bonnet form is similar to a horseshoe shape and cupped to fit around the back of the crown of the head/hair. These bonnets typically had no brim but were profusely decorated with ruffles of fabric and other decorations.

A bonnet in this typical shape in La Mode Illustrée, April,1886

The basic bonnet form is made from two layers of buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) which are shaped over a head form when wet and then dried and cut to create the final solid shape. The edge of this form is stiffened with wire to help the bonnet maintain its shape.

This form is covered with cream silk satin (padded underneath with an invisible cotton lining). Over this satin base, strips of loosely woven straw fabric have been stitched in decorative bands. Straw was used in many different forms on Victorian bonnets, and although I have used a modern millinery straw of the kind often used to decorate special occasion hats, it is not dissimilar from the sorts of woven straw and horsehair braids that I have seen on original bonnets.

 The front ruffle and edge binding are made from the same cream silk satin and the ruffle is lined with cotton to give lots of volume to the front gathers. When the bonnet is positioned towards the back of the head, it is these gathers that can be seen from the front.

 The bonnet is decorated on the outside with a mixture of feathers, ribbons and artificial flowers, as was the taste in the late nineteenth century. A spray of artificial sweet peas (wire, plastic and fabric) in creams and greens is mingled with white rooster feathers and twists of satin ribbon in two complementary shades of green. Nestled among the feathers and leaves there are also some loops of wire with tiny green seed beads, a popular decorative detail that I have noticed on many women's bonnets from this period.

 

 The bonnet ties are of satin ribbon in two shades of green, the same as those used for the decorations. Having two different-coloured bonnet ties was fairly unusual but this is something that I have seen on at least two original Victorian bonnets and creates a fun twist. The two shades complement each other well and create a harmonious effect with the overall decoration. The ribbons are stitched to the back of the bonnet, covering the neck binding and meet in a V at the centre back, and tie under the chin.

 

The bonnet is lined with a strip of couture-grade cream cotton/silk blend fabric. This strip is hand-stitched to the front edge of the bonnet, covering the ruffle gathers, and the back edge is gathered into the crown of the bonnet with very narrow satin ribbon in a hand-stitched casing. This is typical of the lining method for many 1880s bonnet, with the maker's label just peeking through the opening at the back.

 This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using techniques that were employed in the Victorian era

 This charming and fresh little bonnet would be a great addition to any late Victorian spring or summer wardrobe.

Due to its size and shape, the bonnet it not really designed for any specific headsize. The cupped form should fit the contours of the crown of most heads, and as the pictures show, the bonnet is best worn perched on the back of your hair to create the look of the period. The wig for these photographs was loosely styled after the fashions of the 1880s with much of the length of the hair piled onto the crown. The bonnet was then placed over this and pinned. If your hair is long, I have also found that arranging the back hair into a kind of french pleat provides an effective base to support the bonnet (See the photograph below). The best way to secure this bonnet it using a sturdy hat pin or two.

This image is for illustrative purposes only - the bonnet in this photograph is not for sale. However, if you would like something similar do not hesitate to contact me at bygoneelegance@gmail.com.

 This bonnet will be priced at £95.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)