EASTER BONNET SALE - 25% OFF ON ETSY FOR ONE MONTH ONLY

From 7th March to 7th April I will be holding an Easter Bonnet Sale in my Etsy shop. Treat yourself or someone special to an exceptional Easter bonnet with a 25% discount when you use the coupon code EASTER2016 at the checkout. Click here to see the three beautiful bonnets currently for sale.

Girl's Mid Victorian Underwear NOW FOR SALE

This set of girl's mid Victorian underwear is now for sale in my Etsy shop. Click here to find out more.

The set consists of a pair of authentic mid-calf length split-crotch cotton pantaloons, a hooped skirt made in a pretty broderie anglais fabric and a sturdy cotton bodice (decorated to resemble a child's corset) which supports the skirt.

Perfect for 19th century re-enactment, fancy-dress and dressing up, Victorian day at school...
Wear with a simple blouse and a full, gathered skirt (easily made from a large rectangle of material) or a specially made Victorian dress (coming soon to the shop) to create the perfect look for a little Victorian princess.


1] PANTALOONS
The pantaloons are made of 100% cotton lawn with broderie anglais trimming and feature tiny decorative tucks at the hems. The pattern used is similar to that of authentic pantaloons from the period. The two legs are made separately and sewn into a waistband with the crotch left open. The waistband fastens at the centre back with a drawstring. The cut of the legs means that there is an overlap at the front and back when worn which creates the illusion of a closed pair of trousers. However, the split crotch serves its original purpose of making it more practical to visit the bathroom without having to remove all layers of clothing. These pantaloons can easily be worn over ordinary underwear and tights.

[If you would prefer pantaloons with a closed crotch please select the relevant option from the menu above. The pantaloons are essentially identical but will have a closed seam between the legs.]

2] BODICE

The bodice is made from a sturdy 100% cotton twill and the edges are finished with bias binding. The decorative stitching on the bodice is designed to resemble the boning or cording channels on original children's corsets from the Victorian period. (Please note, this is not a corset so there is no boning, cording or restriction of any kind). The bodice closes at the centre back with four mother of pearl buttons (subject to variation depending on supplies). There are also six small buttons around the bottom edge of the bodice to allow the crinoline skirt to be attached. As well as providing an authentic looking base layer for your child's costume, this bodice also helps to support the hooped skirt, making this underwear more comfortable and easier to move in.

3] HOOPED CRINOLINE SKIRT
The hooped skirt is made from a pretty broderie anglais poly cotton fabric with a 7 inch band of decorative embroidery and a scalloped hem. The skirt features two hoops of spiral steel at the hem that create the shape of the skirt. The steels used are 7mm spiral steel of the kind usually used in corsets. This steel is flexible and will bend and flex easily when worn, but springs back into shape immediately and is strong enough to hold the domed shape of the skirts worn during this period. The steels are encased inside strong cotton boning tape and the skirt is gathered into a waistband. The skirt closes with a button at the centre back and buttonholes around the waistband allow the skirt to be attached to the bodice.

This set is made to order and is available in UK sizes Age 6-7-8

Size 6 - Chest 64cm, Waist 56cm
Size 7 - Chest 66cm, Waist 58cm
Size 8 - Chest 68cm, Waist 60cm

Skirt length - approximately 52cm
Hem circumference - approximately 180cm

Please note, these are the actual body measurements. The garments will measure slightly larger than this to allow for ease of movement. For example, the underarm measurement of the Size 6 bodice is approximately 67cm and the waistband of the skirt measures 60cm (allowing for a looser waist when attached to the bodice). The buttons can be moved if required to adjust the fit.

Click here to shop now

Girl's 1850s/1860s Underwear - Age 2-8

I have been working on new products for the shop and this is my prototype for a set of girl's underwear c.1850-1865.

The set includes a pair of cotton lawn split-split crotch drawers trimmed with cotton broderie anglais lace and tiny tucks at the hems. These tie closed at the waist with  drawstring allowing them to be adjusted for comfort.

The hooped crinoline skirt is made from a pretty broderie anglais poly cotton with a scalloped hem and has two 7mm spiral steel bones. Although a little heavier than polyester boning, these steel bones are not as heavy as you might expect as they are not solid and provide a much better level of support for the skirt. They are flexible and bend easily when squeezed or sat on, but they spring back into shape to support the skirts correctly.

The skirt buttons closed at the centre back and tiny button holes in the waistband allow the skirt to be buttoned to the bodice, creating a more comfortable fit at the waist.

The bodice is made of a heavy cotton twill and bound at the edges with bias binding with decorative stitching that imitates the boning or cording channels on original children's corsets. Please note, however, that there is no boning, cording or restriction of any kind in this garment - the stitching is purely decorative.

The bodice buttons closed at the centre back with four mother of pearl buttons and there are six small buttons around the bottom which the hooped crinoline skirt can be attached to. The skirt can be worn with or without this bodice. All of the buttonholes are worked by hand.

This set will soon be available in my Esty shop. It will be made to order and available in sizes age 2-8. 

I will also be working on developing separate garments including the drawers, a chemise, a child's corset with corded detail (but no lacing or restriction) and separate petticoats. For historical re-enactors and anyone requiring a greater level of authenticity, the crinoline will also be available in 100% cotton. 

If you are interested in any of these garments keep checking back here for updates. I will post when the various items have been listed for sale on Etsy and keep you updated on the progress for the individual garments. 

If you have any questions or would like to enquire about custom-made versions of these garments please do not hesitate to contact me at bygoneelegance@gmail.com.

An 1880s-1890s small bonnet in cream silk satin and straw with green ribbons - £95

*** Link to sale page here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste***

 This small, oval-shaped bonnet with a v-neck is typical of late Victorian styles popular in the 1880s and 1890s. The bonnet form is similar to a horseshoe shape and cupped to fit around the back of the crown of the head/hair. These bonnets typically had no brim but were profusely decorated with ruffles of fabric and other decorations.

A bonnet in this typical shape in La Mode Illustrée, April,1886

The basic bonnet form is made from two layers of buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) which are shaped over a head form when wet and then dried and cut to create the final solid shape. The edge of this form is stiffened with wire to help the bonnet maintain its shape.

This form is covered with cream silk satin (padded underneath with an invisible cotton lining). Over this satin base, strips of loosely woven straw fabric have been stitched in decorative bands. Straw was used in many different forms on Victorian bonnets, and although I have used a modern millinery straw of the kind often used to decorate special occasion hats, it is not dissimilar from the sorts of woven straw and horsehair braids that I have seen on original bonnets.

 The front ruffle and edge binding are made from the same cream silk satin and the ruffle is lined with cotton to give lots of volume to the front gathers. When the bonnet is positioned towards the back of the head, it is these gathers that can be seen from the front.

 The bonnet is decorated on the outside with a mixture of feathers, ribbons and artificial flowers, as was the taste in the late nineteenth century. A spray of artificial sweet peas (wire, plastic and fabric) in creams and greens is mingled with white rooster feathers and twists of satin ribbon in two complementary shades of green. Nestled among the feathers and leaves there are also some loops of wire with tiny green seed beads, a popular decorative detail that I have noticed on many women's bonnets from this period.

 

 The bonnet ties are of satin ribbon in two shades of green, the same as those used for the decorations. Having two different-coloured bonnet ties was fairly unusual but this is something that I have seen on at least two original Victorian bonnets and creates a fun twist. The two shades complement each other well and create a harmonious effect with the overall decoration. The ribbons are stitched to the back of the bonnet, covering the neck binding and meet in a V at the centre back, and tie under the chin.

 

The bonnet is lined with a strip of couture-grade cream cotton/silk blend fabric. This strip is hand-stitched to the front edge of the bonnet, covering the ruffle gathers, and the back edge is gathered into the crown of the bonnet with very narrow satin ribbon in a hand-stitched casing. This is typical of the lining method for many 1880s bonnet, with the maker's label just peeking through the opening at the back.

 This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using techniques that were employed in the Victorian era

 This charming and fresh little bonnet would be a great addition to any late Victorian spring or summer wardrobe.

Due to its size and shape, the bonnet it not really designed for any specific headsize. The cupped form should fit the contours of the crown of most heads, and as the pictures show, the bonnet is best worn perched on the back of your hair to create the look of the period. The wig for these photographs was loosely styled after the fashions of the 1880s with much of the length of the hair piled onto the crown. The bonnet was then placed over this and pinned. If your hair is long, I have also found that arranging the back hair into a kind of french pleat provides an effective base to support the bonnet (See the photograph below). The best way to secure this bonnet it using a sturdy hat pin or two.

This image is for illustrative purposes only - the bonnet in this photograph is not for sale. However, if you would like something similar do not hesitate to contact me at bygoneelegance@gmail.com.

 This bonnet will be priced at £95.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

An 1862 high-brimmed bonnet in black velvet with red plaid ribbons - £145

***Link to sale page here:https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste

***

 This bonnet is in the high-brimmed style that became very fashionable in 1862. These bonnets had a very high oval peaked brim in the shape of a spoon which earned them the name "spoon bonnets". The inside of the brim above the forehead was often profusely decorated with artificial flowers and lace. This bonnet is inspired by bonnets seen in The Ladies Treasury (1862) but can be worn to depict the years 1862-1865 as these high-brimmed bonnets continued to be popular until the middle of the century when they suddenly disappeared from fashion.

The Ladies Treasury - 1862

The Ladies Treasury - 1862

 The bonnet frame is made from buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) with a net and wire brim. This method of construction is period correct and also has the advantage that should your bonnet ever get slightly squashed the brim can be gently manipulated back into shape.

 The fabric is a rich black cotton velvet with a short pile and beautiful feel. Although velvet would have mostly been silk at this period, this cotton velvet achieves a pleasing and more economical effect without resorting to synthetic materials. Unfortunately velvet does not photograph well but this is an excellent quality fabric and looks very sumptuous in real life.

The inside of the brim is decorated with artificial leaves and red and white carnation flowers. These appear very prominent on the mannequin head which is small and solid, but when worn they nestle very nicely between the hair and the bonnet. There is also a deep lace ruffle around the inside of the brim made from high quality English cotton leavers lace. This lace is made "authenticlace" on ebay, a British company that makes Cluny style leavers lace on original machines of the kind that would have been being used to produce machine lace in the 1860s.

 The exterior decoration features two medium black ostrich feathers which were a favourite millinery decoration throughout the nineteenth century. These are tucked under the stunning ribbon ties which encircle the crown.

 The bonnet ties are a beautiful 4 1/4 inch wide plaid ribbon in shades of red and purple with gold highlights. Queen Victoria is well known for having started a tartan craze after buying Balmoral in 1848 and ribbon pattern books from the 1860s are full of tartan and plaid designs, many of them in bright and striking colour combinations thanks to the advances in dying silk during this period. The ribbons in 1862 would most likely have been silk. Unfortunately I do not know the fibre composition of this particular ribbon as it is a vintage ribbon. However, their overall effect is not dissimilar to some original silk ribbons that I have seen and they certainly capture the style of this period.

Please note that the ribbons are slightly creased from being tied but will be carefully pressed before being sent - the fabric presses very well

 The inside of the bonnet is lined with a cotton headlining. This is stitched to the front edge of the headpiece near the brim join and pleated into the back of the bonnet. The back edge is not stitched down - this is the way that original bonnets were lined. (Note the back edge is cut on the selvage so will not fray).

 The bavolet (or curtain) is made from the same cotton as the bonnet and lined with hand-stitched faux silk.

This bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using the techniques that were employed in the Victorian era.

This is an eye-catching and elegant bonnet which is sure to add a sense of luxury and style to any outfit. It is perfect for 1860s interpretations, especially at Christmas time, and will complement your crinoline era outfits by creating the complete silhouette of this period. Why not treat yourself or someone special to a wonderful piece of millinery for the festive season - sure to be a hit at Christmas events and Dickens Festivals this winter...

A band of velvet known as a headstay will be added to the inside of the bonnet that is designed to cling to the hair and help keep the bonnet in place. For windy days or extra security you could also secure the bonnet with bobby pins across the headstay, attach a comb to the headstay or use a hatpin. The choice is yours...

The bonnet is designed to fit an average head size of 22-23 inches. However, as the bonnet sits on the crown of the head this is more flexible than a hat style that encircles the forehead. The polystyrene head in the photographs is quite small and has no hair which is why the bonnet looks a little loose in the photographs.

This bonnet will be priced at £145.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)

An 1860-1862 High-Brimmed Bonnet in shades of lavender/ violet - £140.00

*** Link to sale page here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/LaBelleModiste ***

This bonnet is a high-brimmed style suitable for the years 1860-1862 and a great accessory to complete your crinoline era outfit.

The bonnet frame is made from buckram (cotton cloth stiffened with glue and often used for millinery) with a net and wire brim. This method of construction is period correct and also has the advantage that should your bonnet ever get slightly squashed the brim can be gently manipulated back into shape.

The fabric is a light, attractive synthetic damask. Although not period-correct in terms of fibres, this fabric creates a nice period look and does not appear too modern or shiny. The colour is somewhere between lavender and lilac with a slight pinky tinge and is quite accurately produced in the photograph. (However, please be aware that colour can vary significantly from one screen to another).

 The inside of the brim in decorated with a ruffle of wide cotton lace, artificial flowers with plastic and wire stems and fabric petals (heather and gypsophila) loops of narrow lace and small lavender-coloured satin bows.

The exterior decoration comprises an arrangement of artificial flowers and leaves.

The bonnet ties are made from two different shades of antique gros grain ribbon that have been sewn to create the wide ties that were fashionable during this period.

The inside of the bonnet is lined with a cotton muslin headlining. This is stitched to the front edge of the headpiece near the brim join and pleated into the back of the bonnet. The back edge is not stitched down - this is the way that original bonnets were lined.

With the exception of the hem on the bavolet (curtain) and the stitching joining the gros grain ribbon this bonnet was stitched entirely by hand using the techniques that were employed in the Victorian era. The use of machine stitching is also acceptable for this period as sewing machines were beginning to be more widely used in the 1860s.

This bonnet is perfect for completing an authentic 1860s outfit and adding that little something extra to your costume. A band of velvet known as a headstay will be added to the inside of the bonnet that is designed to cling to the hair and help keep the bonnet in place. For windy days or extra security you could also secure the bonnet with bobby pins across the headstay, attach a comb to the headstay or use a hatpin. The choice is yours...

The bonnet is designed to fit an average head size of 22-23 inches. However, as the bonnet sits on the crown of the head this is more flexible than a hat style that encircles the forehead. The polystyrene head in the photographs is quite small and has no hair which is why the bonnet looks a little loose in the photographs.

This bonnet will be priced at £140.00 GBP + postage & packing

It will be available to purchase from Ebay on Saturday 31st October at 10am.

I will post a link to the sale page a week in advance (Saturday 24th October)